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     ¡Òä鹾º AHA (Alphahydroxy acid) áÅÐ Retinol 㹵͹µé¹¤ÃÔʵìȵÇÃÃÉ·Õè 19   ¶×Íà»ç¹¡Òä鹾º·ÕèÊӤѭµèÍ¡ÒþѲ¹ÒÍصÊÒË¡ÃÃÁà¤Ã×èͧÊÓÍÒ§ ·ÓãËé¡ÒÃãªéà¤Ã×èͧÊÓÍÒ§ÁÔãªèà¾Õ§à¾×èÍ»¡»éͧËÃ×Íà¾ÔèÁ¤ÇÒÁÊǧÒÁà·èÒ¹Ñé¹  áµèÊÒÁÒö·ÓãËéà¡Ô´¡ÒÃà»ÅÕè¹á»Å§µèͺÃÔàdz·ÕèãªéãËéàËç¹¼Åä´éÍÂèÒ§ÁÕ»ÃÐÊÔ·¸ÔÀÒ¾   ¨Ö§à¡Ô´¤ÓÇèÒ Cosmeceutical  ãËéà»ç¹·ÕèÃÙé¨Ñ¡ãªé¡Ñ¹ÍÂèÒ§¡ÇéÒ§¢ÇÒ§   
 
     ÁÕÊÒÃÊӤѭà¡Ô´¢Öé¹ÁÒ¡ÁÒÂËÅÒª¹Ô´ ·Ñ駷ÕèÊ¡Ñ´¨Ò¡¾×ª¾Ãó¸ÃÃÁªÒµÔ Êѧà¤ÃÒÐËì¨Ò¡Ëéͧ»®ÔºÑµÔ¡Ò÷ҧà¤ÁÕ  ãËéàÅ×Í¡ãªéãËéàËÁÒСѺ¼ÅÔµÀѳ±ìµèÒ§ª¹Ô´   à¾×èÍËÇѧ¼ÅÅ´ÍÒ¡Òà ÃÑ¡ÉÒ¤ÇÒÁ¼Ô´»¡µÔ·Õèà¡Ô´¢Öé¹ ÁÕ¡Ò÷´Åͧ¡è͹¹ÓÁÒãªé â´ÂÇÔ¸Õ·Óã¹Ëéͧ·´Åͧãªéà«ÅÅì¨ÓÅͧ (invitro)  ËÃ×Í·´Åͧãªé¨ÃÔ§â´ÂÍÒÊÒÊÁѤà (invivo)   à»ÃÕºà·Õº¼Å¡è͹áÅÐËÅѧ¡ÒÃãªé¼ÅÔµÀѳ±ì   áÅéǹÓÁÒ»ÃÐÁÇżÅãËéàË繨ÃÔ§â´Â¡ÒÃãªéµÑÇàŢʶԵԠ ÊÒáÅØèÁ·ÕèÁÕº·ºÒ·Áҡ㹡ÒÃãªéà»ç¹ÊÒÃÊӤѭà¾×èͼÅÔµ Cosmeceutical ¤×ÍÊÒÃ໻䷴ì
 
     ໻䷴ìÁÕ¢éÍ´Õ¡ÇèÒ¡ÒÃãªé AHA áÅÐ Retinol  ´éÇÂà˵ؼŷÕèÊӤѭ¤×Íãªéä´é¼Å´Õã¹»ÃÔÁÒ³¹éÍ äÁèÁռšèÍÃФÒÂà¤×ͧµèͺÃÔàdz·Õèãªé »ÃÐÊÔ·¸ÔÀÒ¾¢Í§à»»ä·´ì¢Ö鹡Ѻ¤ÇÒÁÂÒǢͧÊÒÂâ«è¡Ã´ÍÐÁÔâ¹ ÅӴѺª¹Ô´¡Ã´ÍÐÁÔâ¹·ÕèàÃÕ§µè͡ѹº¹ÊÒÂâ«è   ·ÓãËéÁÕ໻䷴ìãËéàÅ×Í¡ãªéä´éÁÒ¡ÁÒµÒÁÇѵ¶Ø»ÃÐʧ¤ì ä´éÍÂèҧ੾ÒÐà¨ÒШ§ àªè¹ Glycyl-Histidyl-Lysine ·Ó˹éÒ·Õè¡ÃеØ鹡ÒÃÊÃéÒ§¤ÍÅÅÒਹã¹à«ÅÅì fibroblast    Glycyl-Lysyl-Histidine ·Ó˹éÒ·Õè¡ÃеØ鹡ÒÃÊÅÒµÑǢͧä¢Áѹã¹à«ÅÅì adipocyte   ÊÒÁÒö¨Óṡ˹éÒ·Õè¢Í§à»»ä·´ìµÒÁ¢ºÇ¹¡Ò÷Õè໻䷴ìà¢éÒä»ÁÕº·ºÒ·µèÍà«ÅÅìä´é´Ñ§¹Õé
1)      à»ç¹ªÕÇâÁàÅ¡ØÅ·ÕèÊè§ÊÑ­­Ò³ãËéà¡Ô´»®Ô¡ÔÃÔÂÒªÕÇà¤ÁÕ·Õè¨Óà»ç¹¢Í§à«ÅÅìã¹µÓá˹觵èÒ§ æ          
·Õè¼ÔÇ˹ѧ ËÑÇ㨠ÊÁͧ Ãѧä¢è à»ç¹µé¹
2)      ¡ÃеØ鹡ÒÃÊÃéÒ§ macromolecules àªè¹ collagen elastin fibronectin
3)      ÂѺÂÑ駢ºÇ¹¡ÒÃàÁµÒºÍÅÔ«ÖÁ·ÓãËéà¡Ô´¡ÒÃÅ´¡ÒÃÊÃéÒ§àÁÅÒ¹Ô¹ à¾ÔèÁ¡ÒÃÂèÍÂÊÅÒÂä¢Áѹ à»ç¹µé¹
4)      à¾ÔèÁ¡Åä¡¡Òûéͧ¡Ñ¹µÑÇàͧ¢Í§à«ÅÅì
 
     ¨Ð¾ºÇèÒ໻䷴ìÁÕÍÔ·¸Ô¾ÅµèÍà«ÅÅìµèÒ§æÃèÒ§¡ÒÂÁÒ¡ÁÒ   ¼Åâ´ÂµÃ§µèÍà«ÅÅì¼ÔÇÊÒÁÒöÊÃØ»ä´é¤×Í
1)       ¡ÃеØ鹡ÒÃÊÃéÒ§ macromoleculeà¾ÔèÁ¡ÒÃÊÃéÒ§ collagen
2)       ¤Çº¤ØÁ¡ÒÃàÊ×èÍÁÊÀÒ¾¢Í§ collagen
3)       ¤Çº¤ØÁ¡Ò÷ӧҹ¢Í§àÍç¹ä«Áì·Õè·Ó˹éÒ·Õèà»ç¹ antioxidant
4)       »ÃѺ»Ãا«èÍÁá«Á¡ÒÃÊÖ¡ËÃͧ͢à«ÅÅì
5)       Å´¡ÒÃÊÃéÒ§àÁÅÒ¹Ô¹·Õèà¡Ô¹¨Óà»ç¹ ·ÓãËéÊÕ¼ÔÇÊÁèÓàÊÁÍ
6)       »éͧ¡Ñ¹¡ÒÃà¨ÃÔ­¢Í§àª×éÍẤ·ÕàÃÕÂ
 
    ¡ÒÃàÅ×Í¡ãªé໻䷴ì¢Ö鹡ѺÇѵ¶Ø»ÃÐʧ¤ì·Õèµéͧ¡ÒÃÇèÒ ¨ÐàÅ×Í¡ãªéãËéà¡Ô´¼ÅÍÂèÒ§äàÁÕãËéàÅ×Í¡à¾×èÍÅ´ÃÔéÇÃÍ »ÅÙ¡¼Á ·ÓãËé¼ÔÇÊÕà¢éÁÊÇ ·ÓãËé¼ÔÇ¢ÒÇÊÇ Ŵ¡ÒÃà¡Ô´¼ÔÇà»Å×Í¡ÊéÁ à«ÅÅÙäŵ젡ÃеØ鹡ÒÃÊÃéÒ§ stem cell »Ñ¨¨ØºÑ¹ÁÕ¾º¡ÒÃãªé໻䷴ìã¹¼ÅÔµÀѳ±ìËÅÒ¡ËÅÒª¹Ô´ àªè¹¤ÃÕÁ·Ò»Ò¡ ¤ÃÕÁ·Ò¶Ø§ãµéµÒ ¤ÃÕÁ·ÒÃͺµÒÅ´ÃͤÅéӴӠ໻䷴ì·Õè¹ÓÁÒãªéà¾×èÍ·ÓãËé¼ÔÇ¢ÒÇÊÇ·Õ辺㹼ÅÔµÀѳ±ì·ÕèÁÕ¢ÒÂã¹µÅÒ´àªè¹
1)      Oligopeptide-34
·Ó˹éÒ·ÕèÅ´¡ÒÃÊÃéÒ§àÁÅÒ¹Ô¹â´ÂÅ´¡Ò÷ӧҹ¢Í§àÍç¹ä«Áìä·âëÔà¹Ê Å´¡Òâ¹ÂéÒÂàÁÅÒ¹Ô¹·Õè¼ÅÔµâ´Âmelanocyte ä»Âѧà«ÅÅì¼ÔǪÑ鹹͡ keratinocyte Å´¡ÒÃÍÑ¡àʺâ´ÂÅ´¡ÒÃÊÃéÒ§    T cell   áÅÐÅ´¡ÒÃÊÃéÒ§ TH1 «Öè§à»ç¹proinflammation cytokine
2)      Diaminopropionyl Tripeptide-33
·Ó˹éÒ·Õè»éͧ¡Ñ¹à«ÅÅì¼ÔǨҡ¡Ò÷ÓÅÒÂâ´ÂÃѧÊÕÂÙÇÕ   Å´¡ÒÃà¡Ô´ Reactive Carbonyl Species ÊÃéÒ§àÊÃÔÁ¡ÒëèÍÁá«Á DNA ·ÕèàÊÕÂËÒ¨ҡ¡Ò÷ÓÅÒÂâ´ÂÃѧÊÕÂÙÇÕ à¾ÔèÁ»ÃÐÊÔ·¸ÔÀÒ¾¢Í§ DNA 㹡Òû¡»éͧµ¹àͧ¨Ò¡ÁÅÀÒÇÐ
3)      Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 ·Ó˹éÒ·Õè»éͧ¡Ñ¹áÅÐàÊÃÔÁÊÃéÒ§¤ÍÅÅÒਹâ´Â¡ÒáÃеØé¹ TGF-b     Å´¡ÒÃà¡Ô´ÃÔéÇÃÍÂ
4)      Pentapeptide-3 Å´ÃÔéÇÃÍÂâ´Â¡ÒÃÅ´¡Ò÷ӧҹ¢Í§ Acetylcholine·Õèà«ÅÅì¼ÔÇ
5)       Oligopeptide-68 àÃ觡Ò÷ÓÅÒ MITF (Microphtalmia-associated transcription factor)   Tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2 «Öè§à»ç¹â»ÃµÕ¹·Õè¤Çº¤ØÁ¡ÒÃÊÃéÒ§àÁÅÒ¹Ô¹
 
     ¼Ùé¼ÅÔµÊÒÁÒöàÅ×Í¡ÊÃéҧ໻䷴ì¢Öé¹ÁÒãªéä´éÍÂèÒ§äÁèÁÕ¢éͨӡѴ áµè¼ÅµèÍà«ÅÅì¼ÔÇÁÔä´é¢Ö鹡Ѻª¹Ô´¢Í§à»»ä·´ìà¾Õ§ÍÂèÒ§à´ÕÂÇ Âѧ¢Ö鹡Ѻ»ÃÐÊÔ·¸ÔÀÒ¾¢Í§¼ÅÔµÀѳ±ìÇèÒ¨ÐÊÒÁÒö¹ÓÊè§à»»ä·´ìà¢éÒÊÙèà«ÅÅì¼ÔÇä´éÍÂèÒ§äà¨Ö§à»ç¹¤ÇÒÁ·éÒ·Ò·Õè¹Óä»ÊÙè¡ÒÃàÃÕ¹ÃÙéà¾×è;Ѳ¹ÒÊÃéÒ§¼ÅÔµÀѳ±ìÍÂèÒ§µèÍà¹×èͧ   â´ÂºØ¤¤Åҡ÷Õèà¡ÕèÂÇ¢éͧ áÅÐÁÕÃÒ§ÇÑÅà»ç¹¼ÅÊÓàÃ稷ҧ´éÒ¹¡ÒõÅÒ´à»ç¹¤èҵͺ᷹

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